The
following information will help you get familiar with carpet terms
and definitions so you can make
an educated decision on selecting your next carpet.
PILE DESIGNS
There are several terms relating to the manufacturing
process which need to be understood
before we actually discuss carpet pile designs.
1. Gauge -The distance between the needles
on a tufting machine . the gauge is expressed in fractions of an inch,
and refers to the number of needles which are positioned across the width
of the tufting machine.
2. Pitch -The distance between the stitches
made by the needles (the distance which the backing material travels before
the needle inserts the next tuft). Pitch is expressed in terms of the
number of tufts per inch.
3. Density -The closeness of the pile yarns.
Density refers to the closeness of the pile yarns, and is an indication
of both gauge and pitch. It is measured by the number of ounces per yard.
Generally, the higher the density, the better the quality of the carpet.
4. Face Weight -The weight, expressed in
the number of ounces per yard of fiber extending above the primary backing.
These factors (gauge, pitch, density and face weight) all have direct
effects upon each of the others. For instance, if the density increases
with the pile height remaining the same, the face weight will increase.
Or if the pile height increases with the density remaining the same, the
face weight will increase.
The rest of this information will be based on Cut-Pile
designs (59% of the current market), Loop-Pile designs (28% of the market),
and Cut and Loop-Pile combination designs (13% of the market).
CUT-PILE DESIGNS
1. Saxony Pile
A saxony configuration will generally have a pile
height of about three quarters of an inch. The main distinction of a saxony
will be in the fact that the pile is made up of twisted, heat-set yarns
with sufficient density to cause them to stand upright to foot traffic.
Ninety percent of the expensive carpets made today are of the saxony pile.
2. Plush or Velvet
The plush design is dense enough to remain upright
to normal traffic. The major distinguishing trait of a plush is that there
is little or no twist set in the face yarns which comprise the pile. This
introduces a smooth, uniform texture on the face of the plush or velvet
carpet. This "velvet-plush" carpet can be sensitive to high
temperatures in the cleaning solution, causing fiber distortion. Temperature
settings should be turned down from the maximum settings.
3. Shag Pile
This design has almost disappeared from the current
market, though since a number of shag carpets remain from the early seventies,
it warrants some discussion. Generally, a shag carpet contains a pile
height greater than one inch, but that pile height must be coupled with
so little density as to create a casual, random-lay effect so that the
sides of the yarns are exposed to the foot traffic rather than the tips
which are exposed on most other carpet configurations.
4. Splush (short-shag or mini-shag)
This carpet is halfway between the shag and the
plush. The pile height is usually about three quarters of an inch, with
a density which is insufficient to cause the yarn ends to stand upright
to foot traffic. Although the density is greater than that of a shag,
the same "random lay" effect is still apparent.
5. Frieze (free-say)
This design is composed of very tightly twisted
yarns that give a rough, nubby appearance.
6. Grass-pile
Grass-pile carpets are usually made of slit-film
olefin which actually simulates grass. It comes in a variety of colors.
This design consists of uniformly level tufts in
an uncut or loop-pile configuration. Commercial quality carpet is often
of the level-loop configuration with high density but low pile height.
2. Multi-Level Loop-Pile
This configuration is also known as "high-low"
pile carpet. It is formed by increasing tension on the yarn during tufting,
which forms patterns with high and low loops.
CUT AND LOOP PILE DESIGNS
1. Sculptured Saxony
Sculptured saxony consists of higher, cut-pile
yarns in the saxony tradition which are contrasted in texture by lower,
loop-pile yarns which remain uncut.
2. Sculptured Shag
This design is similar to the sculptured Saxony
though is composed of higher, less dense cut-pile yarns in a shag configuration,
contrasted by lower loops which remain uncut.
3. Level Cut-loop
This technique is used to create a wide range of
patters using cut and loop piles of the same height.
There are many different types of fiber used to make
carpet. In this section we are going to give you the PROS & CONS of
the four most popular fibers, Nylon, Polyester, Olefin, and Wool.
NYLON
PROS
Good Elasticity –Nylon
will stretch up to 33% of its length and still regain its original shape.
This is very important in heavy traffic areas where furniture may be dragged
across the carpet.
Very Abrasion Resistant –It
even surpasses wool. Many manufacturers offer wear guaranties.
Static Resistant –
Not its ancestry, but today’s fibers do very well.
Heat Sets Well –When
properly heat set, nylon retains its crimp, twist, and dye extremely well.
Good resiliency –Nylon
can be crushed for long periods and still regain its original shape.
Non-Absorbent –Nylon
dries quickly since it will absorb less than 8% of its weight in H20.
Mildew Resistant –Nylon
provides no food source, but mildew can grow on it if another food source
is available. Notice the damage that can be done under an over watered
potted plant.
Nylon responds very well to most professional cleaning
methods and treatments.
CONS
Nylon is almost always acid dyed. It is rarely solution
dyed, so it can have problems with bleaching, fading, urine reactions,
etc.
Polyester’s popularity seems to go up and
down like a roller coaster. Because it’s relatively inexpensive
to produce, manufacturers are regularly reintroducing this fiber to the
carpet industry. Although it has some excellent qualities, and is a great
fiber for clothing, it does have some limiting factors when used in carpet.
PROS
Since polyester does not have dye sites, it is usually
dyed with a disperse dye or solution dye method which makes it very resistant
to bleaching, fading and soil dye reactions.
Stain Resistant –This
applies only to water based stains.
Low Absorbency –Quick
drying
CONS
Polyester is difficult to dye and usually must be solution
dyed which limits the variety.
It is not resistant to oily stains, and in fact an oily
spill or spot left without proper cleanup can oxidize and even chemically
bond with and become part of the fiber. As a professional, you need to
know that some of these spots just won’t come out.
Crimp Loss –Early
polyester was a mess. A new polyester carpet was fuller, fluffier and
more luxurious than anything on the market. Six-month-old polyester was
an owner’s nightmare. Due to loss of twist and crimp, long strait
fibers were left in the traffic areas, which caused matting and tangling
and destroyed the original look of the carpet. Definite improvements have
been made by heat setting and using finer yarns, but crimp loss can still
be a problem. This is a characteristic of polyester, not a defect.
Olefin is a very versatile carpet fiber. It is used
in carpet backings (called polypropylene), face yarns and even astroturf.
Olefin has become almost synonymous with one of
its trade names “Herculon” a trademark owned by Hercules Corporation,
a major manufacturer of olefin.
PROS
Olefin is very moisture resistant. It will
absorb only one tenth of 1% of its weight in water. This leads to some
pros and some cons.
- Very difficult to stain.
- Great for outdoor applications (stadium or pool)
Chemical Resistant –
Most chemicals and bleaches won’t damage it at all
Solution dyeing makes it resistant to fading.
Lightweight – It
is the only common carpet fiber that will float on water. ( Except celluloid)
Strong –It
wears well except for resiliency factor (see cons).
It has good cleanability and stain release.
(Except oil/petroleum-based stains – see cons)
CONS
Olefin is not a resilient fiber. When crushed it does
not regain its original shape easily. Traffic areas tend to lie down,
showing “apparent soiling”. Furniture marks can be permanent
reminders to the owner of where his furniture used to be.
It is a very heat sensitive fiber. Its melting
point is around 300 degrees but damage can occur at lower temperatures.
Olefin can be damaged by:
- Hot metal quick connects or even hot solution
hoses.(This provides a permanent reminder
to the owner of the guy who last cleaned their carpet.)
- Jet Marks –This
may result from high temperature and pressure. - Friction –
Even dragging a heavy piece of furniture across an olefin carpet can cause
permanent marks from the heat generated by friction.
Like polyester, extended exposure to oil-based soils
may become permanent.
Olefin is very difficult to dye due to its low absorbency
rate. It is almost always solution dyed.
Quite often, Olefin is in a glue-down situation, which
creates a potential to brown from soil wicking from the base of the yarns
due to incomplete soil removal. Over wetting and/or slow drying increases
the likelihood. To reduce the chance of soil wicking, thoroughly pre-vacuum
the carpet, remove excess moisture, and speed the drying with air movers.
Wool comes from the fleece of sheep or lambs. This is
one of the oldest fibers used by man, dating back over two thousand years.
It is still one of the finest face yarns available for carpet. Wool is
chemically made up of standard organic elements including sulfur, which
accounts for the wool smell when it is damp.
PROS
Wool has excellent soil hiding capabilities. Wool will
not exhibit or show soil as much as other fibers. The reason for this
is that wool is an opaque fiber (as opposed to synthetics which are transparent)
and wool doesn’t refract and reflect light like synthetics. The
naturally dull appearance provided by the scales of the epidermis makes
soil much less apparent to the human eye.
Wool is very strong, elastic and resilient. Wool face
yarn in a well-constructed carpet will stand up to the heaviest traffic
and still look beautiful. (Notice the carpet in most casinos and finer
hotel lobbies and hallways).
Natural crimp makes wool and excellent insulator.
Good Absorbency –This
means that wool reacts well to a number of dye types and techniques. Keep
in mind, this means easy staining also.
Soil Release –Wool
responds very well to cleaning as moisture makes the fiber swell and release
dirt.
Wool is naturally flame retardant.
CONS
Wool is a very expensive material. This arises mainly
from the processing cost, the cleaning, and the preparation, etc., rather
than theactual cost of the raw material.
Fiber Distortion –Wool
is very prone to distortion by excess agitations such as jet streaks and
wand marks. This is particularly pronounced when it happens under heated
conditions. To help prevent this kind of distortion the professional cleaner
should turn the water temperature down somewhat on a wool cut pile carpet
and be sure that the grooming takes place almost immediately after the
cleaning process.
Stains Easily –Due
to its absorbency and ease of dyeing, wool is also easily stained by wine,
Kool-Aid and other acid dyestuffs. Remember that absorbency is the same
quality that makes wool so desirable as far as dye acceptance and obtaining
the beautiful rich colors that you often find in wool carpets and oriental
rugs.
Chemical Sensitivity –Wool
is sensitive to alkaline chemicals above a pH of 9.5 after prolonged exposure.
This exposure will tend to make wool brittle and discolor somewhat. This
problem is sometimes referred to as “felting”. Wool is also
very sensitive to chlorine bleach, such as Clorox, which is normally found
in homes and grocery stores. Chlorine bleach will completely dissolve
wool within a matter of minutes. The New Zealand Wool Bureau recommends
water-based cleaning solutions with a pH not lower than 5.5 and not higher
than 8 pH.
Staple Yarn –
Fuzzing can be a source of problems because wool only comes as a staple
yarn and excess agitation can cause that fuzzing effect.